Hiking around Bukhansan National Park

On Friday we got a leave from work and went to the Bukhansan National Park. As our boss recommended us to avoid weekends for hiking around the park. There are several entrances, but as we wanted to hike up to Baegundae Peak, we headed for the one at Doseonsa (Temple).

The easiest way from Itaewon was to take the underground #4 to Suyu Station, go out of Exit 3 and take one of the blue buses #120 or #153 which start from the middle of the street (following the advice of the Tourism Office at Itaewon Station). At the last stop of the bus you can already see the outdoor shops and a transfer bus on the other side of the street. Just follow the Korean hikers. You can pay 500 Won for this bus up to the parking lot when you get to the Doseonsa, there should be a wooden box outside of the bus. If you are lucky as we were, some old ladies will introduce you to that practice tooth and nail.

Crossing the street you can find the entrance of the Baegundae Trail. We made a round trip, from the Doseonsa Temple to the Baegundae Shelter up to the peak and back through the Jongamun Gate. The weather was great for our hike, sunny and mild, but for our sports program the trail got steeper as we thought. In the end there was even some fixed rope routes. If you are not afraid of heights you can make it, as there is no part without ropes, but do not underestimate the challenge. At the end a breathtaking view and our high spirits made totally up the effort. Even if it was a little bit hazy (as almost every day) we enjoyed part of the never ending city, the bare rocks and trees.

And coming here on a weekday was in fact perfect, as the peak was well visited but not to full. Thinking about the many Koreans we saw thoroughly dressed in hiking equipment the other weekend and about the narrow climb up, you will have to bring a lot of patience for a trip on the weekend. 

For the evening we just enjoyed our neighborhood. Just after the buzzing streets of Itaewon and right behind our Hotel the relaxed area of Noksapyeong is great for an evening stroll. With more locals and nice little cafes and restaurants mixed with residential areas you can find a lot of Korean food as well. No wonder that we had fried vegetables, spicy rice cake and dumpling soup for dinner. On top of the hill right behind the Buddhist Shrine of Itaewon we stopped for a nightly view over the city including the (broadcasting) N Seoul Tower. 

Our First Weekend in Seoul - Culinary and Historic Discovery Tour

Being in Seoul for four weeks, I try to revive my blog a little bit. Let’s see if I get some time along working at our office here in Seoul J

My colleague Joyce and I started our adventure yesterday, hurling ourselves into the city right after arriving at our apartments in Itaewon. And better thing is there to do, as getting an Asian city to know by its food! Our plan was to get a glance at the Changdeokgung (Palace), but we were distracted from the first street food stall just when we got off the underground. That is how we started with something like fried fishballs and sausages.

When we arrived at the Changdeokgung, we had strength for walking but they told us we were to late for the last tour around the Secret Garden and Palace, so we postponed that to the next day and went on to Buckchon and Samcheon-Dong. We admired the traditional houses and at times a glance from the hills down to the skyscrapers of the city. On the way we collected fried pancakes with a potato filling and caramelized sweet potato. (I let you know, when I find out the names.)

In the evening we had dinner at Sosonjae, eating Bibimbap (mixed rice) and fried meet patties (tteok galbi) with the Korean side dishes. Speaking of food – a completely successful day!

Missing out on the palaces our first day, we started right after breakfast for the Gyeongbokgung (Palace). We followed the paths of the former king with an exeption - he was carried, we had to walk. And even today normal people have to walk through the side gates. Today only a few of the buildings, that were destroyed by the Japanese invasion over 400 years ago have been rebuilt, but still the Palace with its colorful painted buildings, abundant expansion and situation in between the house moutains is impressive. The Korean people knew how to use floor heating in an early time as well, so you have to look out for the chimneys next to every building, they skillfully integrated them in the architecture and greenery.

As highlight of our tour to the Gyeongbokgung, we watched the changing of the guards, reanimate hundred year old customs.

At the Changdeokgung (Palace) we had to change our combination ticket (for the most important palaces) in to an voucher for the tour through the Secret Garden, as it is limited. Being there only five minutes before the tour started the woman at the ticket office almost did not want to let us in the tour. And as we walked past the palace buildings to the entrance of the garden, we realized why – the Koreans (or at least the Korean tour guides) are extremely punctual. Did the one at Gyeongbokgung stared on the point, the one at Changdeokgung started even some minutes before the set time. But the guards welcomed us still cheery.

The walk through the park was as pleasant even with some fifty other people. Small pavillons along ponds and enclosed by trees, hills and in the end the housing of the crown prince made it worthwhile. Afterwards we were ready for our next food stop – the other palaces have to wait for another day. So we just hopped in the palace buildings which are more nested into each other than at the bigger Gyeonbokgung and with that can convey the city character with winding alleys of an Korean palace even better than its bigger counterpart. And as this palace was less crowded we saw even more small groups of children with their teacher, learning about history and architecture. The importance of education is innate here. At Gyeongbokgung there was even an eunuch in a traditional dress teaching children.

On our search for a very late lunch we wandered through Insa-Dong and ended in a perfect dumpling diner. How did we found it – we just stepped in the longest food queue we saw on our way. You could see the women making the dumplings just in front of the customers. We ordered the Bukchon Special Plate and had vegetable, kimchi and prawn filling, dumplings without dough around and massive fried dumplings – perfect.

As the dumplings were just around the corner of Ssamzigil Market, we were ready for a little window shopping afterwards. The market reminds me of the kids toy you could find at most pediatrists. The one where you let marbles roll down wooden half pipes – from left to right, going down one floor, from right to left etc. The market was the same just that the marbles were people and they were walking up. The shops had a lot of unique and self-made stuff, a little bit like Etsy in real. On top we found a place where people made their wishes on round buttons or hear buttons (forget the old locks) and a booth that sold cakes in the shap of piles of shit. Sure we had to try that – in real it was I think a cake with red bean paste for filling (the same they also sell in shapes of fish, I think).

On our way back we made a stop at the Lotte in Myeong-Dong, the one department store in Korea. But as it is an Korean Company, it does not only operate department stores, you can find a hotel next to the store, food and beverages, an adventure park and a lot more. But as our feet were tired of walking we suspended shopping for today.